inReach message from Daniel Culpepper

We are half way across to the Balearics. Formentera is our first stop. It is 3:15am, the girls are asleep and I am on duty. View the location or send a reply to Daniel Culpepper: https://explore.delorme.com/textmessage/txtmsg?mo=f7fbdca493964876a567d6f5c57f9a9f33774670&adr=50ftbnto-clpppr%40sailingheldeleine.com Daniel Culpepper sent this message from: Lat 38.41375 Lon 0.393705 Do not reply directly to this message. This message was sent to you using the DeLorme inReach two-way satellite communicator with GPS. To learn more, visit http://www.delorme.com/inReach/

oops…did not make it.

We are now in Alicante, Spain. Things were going beautifully yesterday and most of last night but during Maryly’s 3 hour watch (during which she dodged a 900 foot cruise ship and a 700 foot tanker while I slept blissfully unaware 4 feet away in the cockpit!) the wind shifted and the sea state went to Hell. I knew there was a ‘system’ between the Balearics and Sardinia but the projections underestimated the choppy ride. After suffering through a long night in the Strait of Gibraltar, it was an easy and safer decision to divert to Alicante and fight the battle another day. the girls watched Indiana Jones movies over night in the master cabin and slept through most of the worst of it. Alicante has some cool ruins and an old town where we hope to have Tapas tonight. Will report later. All safe. Regards to all.

inReach message from Daniel Culpepper

At sea again! Gibraltar to Cabo de Gata overnight. All is good. Flat seas and no wind. Motorboat time. View the location or send a reply to Daniel Culpepper: https://explore.delorme.com/textmessage/txtmsg?mo=ecc44c7eecb641e598a1ed074aefd64933118123&adr=50ftbnto-clpppr%40sailingheldeleine.com Daniel Culpepper sent this message from: Lat 36.221152 Lon -4.788687 Do not reply directly to this message. This message was sent to you using the DeLorme inReach two-way satellite communicator with GPS. To learn more, visit http://www.delorme.com/inReach/

Off to the Balearics

In the morning we are off to the Balearic Islands. We will do the trip in 2 legs since the total mileage is 400+ miles and I have been warned to NOT do more than an overnight at a time or face some ahh …..resistance.  First leg is overnight to Cabi de Gata where we will anchor for the night (sleep?) and then get on the road again on Wednesday for another overnight to Formentera Island in the Balearic Island group. I think we are looking forward to some swimming off the back of the boat and maybe a beach or two. After a hot day (it’s amazing that even though the temp exceeded 120 degrees in the Desert, I felt miserably hot today in the marina with no wind and 85 degrees..) I am missing Moimagerocco a bit. It really is a unique and amazing culture and country. We will be back. I will write more about Morocco later. So, hopefully there will be some WIFI in the next few days and I will do some updates. Regards to you all.

Desert

imageWe woke up early, the flies buzzing around our heads and it was hot!! After being treated to a spectacular breakfast we left via car to explore more of the desert. We stopped at 40-60 year old buildings, already ruins from the harassment of the wind and sand. Then to a Berber home (nomads). This Berber, I learned, has 4 wives each in their own house (which is not really a house, more like tents against mud brick walls). While exploring one of the small pocked marked huts with 3 young boys, a scared girl and a mother who covered her face every time my dad walked by, I found it hard not to judge them by western morales . To me, just the thought of having 4 wives disgusts me, even though I don’t know these people well, and have never walked in their shoes. This wife’s house was neat and there was a strength in her eyes which seemed ancient and worn. Later we stopped at a fossil mine, that’s real purpose was to mine for mica for mascara, but that produced fossils as a byproduct. We bought a trilobite and a necklace and traveled on to a market. There we looked at some spices and donkeys and then to the Kasbah were we swam in a pool, drank soda and I read a book on Rugby (which was, actually, very entertaining). Then the most amazing part of the day, a second camel ride over the dunes. The animals seemed more graceful now and we stopped at a tall dune and hiked to the top. Standing, the wind whipping through my hair, I felt free. Then the words Aziz had said earlier in the day came back to me “This is the real Morocco.” It’s not the haggling merchants, the obnoxious prices or corrupt guards. It’s not the heat, the oppression of women or people we mistrust because we fear robbery. Those are parts of Morocco but they are not the whole Morocco, they do not make up the whole picture. Morocco is my dad paying too much for water and Aziz, horrified at the price, insisting on paying my dad back. Morocco is the rush of a camel, Sahid, our camel guide, smiling huge, arms open wide: “Ma Shala”. Morocco is mountains of sand, canyons with rivers of green, pine trees and houses with red roofs. It’s curious children and helpful locals, kind hotel managers. This is a huge country, full of diverse people and diverse cultures. We need to make sure that when we travel we do not get caught up in one picture. One picture is not always the whole picture. Tomorrow we head out of the desert to Fez again to stay in a different hotel. In two days we head back to Gibraltar. — Maddy

Romans and Henna

imageThis has been a really cool day. Though it was 107 degrees (only a DRY heat so…) we took a car to the Roman Ruins of Volubilis. This is catnip for the Culpepper family. We do love our ruins. Mosaics that were laid 2,000 years ago. An amazingly modern city. 17 villas with the largest a mere 21,500 sq. ft.! Ancient sewers. The poor at the bottom end of the gravity flow and stone construction so beautifully wrought that time disappears. Next up was Henna Tattoos for the girls and dinner to go from the medina. We are  getting ready for the trip to the desert tomorrow. We will be gone 3 days. 9 hours by 4 wheel drive to Merzouga. 2 nights in the desert. Visits to Berber villages and a return to Fes. If we can update we will but we shall see.

Cooking and a Bath

imageWhen I started this post last night, the highlight of the day was going to be the cooking class we took at Cafe Clock in the Medina. Souad, the chef, was indeed wonderful. We started by picking a menu and than shopping in the medina’s stalls. The chicken stall was a bit rough for the girls but if you are going to eat it…. the act was very swift and we returned later for the bird in a more ‘A&P’ form. The cooking was straight forward and the results were tasty. That was supposed to be the highlight of the day but…. Enter Sayed. At 5′ tall and about 100 lbs, he is perhaps the skinniest and fittest human I have ever seen. He arrived to give me a Hammam rubdown cleansing massage. To say that he was ‘thorough’ would vastly minimize this man’s attention to detail. Not since my mother washed me in the kitchen sink at the age of 6 months old have I been as squeaky clean as I was after an hour with Sayed. Though the ‘Brillo pad’ treatment during the middle 25 minutes did cause visions of blood running in the drains, it was a supremely satisfying and invigorating experience. Feeling like a combination of Superman and Adonis last night, I was dismayed to wake up this morning as myself. It was a crushing fall but hey, I’ll take the one night and an unforgettable experience.

Oh yes, I almost forgot….it was 107 degrees in Fes today.

 

 

 

 

 

Morocco Medina: Medieval Marketing

The Propane Mule

The Propane Mule

So with the call to prayer (Muslim priest calling everyone to pray at a mosque, usually broadcasted by speakers throughout the neighborhood) echoing in my ears I will start tonight’s post! Today was a very interesting day. We woke up and had an amazing breakfast with flat bread and spiced egg at the hotel. Then I put on my long pants (they are very conservative here and in order to show respect we all have to wear long pants and shirts) and my family headed out to the Medina. The Medina is a market, a huge market, with tan walls, dirty streets and narrow alleyways. It was closed today, which I’m still not sure was because of the day of the week or the fact that this month is the holy month of Ramadan. Some stores still remained stubbornly open and walking through the streets, it felt like we had been transported back into the Middle Ages. A shop keeper opened his discussion with “a thousand welcomes” and donkeys made their way up the cobblestones as old women in head scarves hobbled together. There were stray cats everywhere and random posters on the walls said anything from history to advertising Disney merchandise. The people here are very aggressive. Not in a mean sort of way, but they try and offer you this, ask if you want that, raise prices of items 5x as much as they should be etc. Several people came up to us asking if we “want guide very good” and one man ended with an angry “why?” when we refused him. The shopkeepers expect you to haggle and nothing is its honest price. We did some test runs at jewelry shops and I was able to get a necklace and bracelet for 200 Dirhams (which is roughly $20 U.S.) which is still a lot. It’s hard, the shopkeepers are very friendly and smile as they try to earn as much as possible. Anyways it was an amazing cultural experience and it was incredible to walk streets that were probably thousands of years old and hadn’t changed much in that span of time. We returned to the hotel in the later afternoon and I treated my sister to a good old fashioned crew workout before jumping into the pool for relief from the 107 or so degree heat. We had a great dinner at the hotel which consisted of couscous and fruit salad. We take cooking classes tomorrow and in two days head into the desert. –Maddy

Monkey Day!
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imageHi! I’m a little late in writing this post but it’s been a crazy few days! No time to write, think, or flop onto a feather bed and kiss the world goodbye. Anyways, we had a incredible day in Gibraltar June 24, so that’s what I’ll be talking about in this post. So since my sis’ already gave a summary of our day, and I don’t want to get boring and repeat myself, I’ll just talk about some highlights.
The first one is the MONKEYS. After dragging our shaky legs off a tram car that was probably meant to carry no more than a few fleas, we didn’t expect to be wowed by the wildlife. However, as soon as we got off and clambered up some stairs there was a monkey sitting RIGHT THERE. 🙂 He was casually staring out at the gorgeous view from the top of the rock, like he’d seen it every day and humans were no big deal. We enjoyed seeing more monkeys as soon as we walked down the path, and I saw a few interesting scenes play out.
So, while the rest of my family were eating lunch, I watched a baby monkey’s acrobatics. He clambered all over the wall as his parents groomed, only about a foot away from us humans. This little monkey would jump high as he could and then hit the ground with a SMACK. He would climb everywhere, just as playful as any human child. He even had the audacity to peek inside the gift shop and sit smack in the middle of the doorway, next to a stuffed animal of himself! Now this went on fine while the humans all watched and smiled until a young man and women started to bug the baby monkey. The man started to poke the monkey on the feet, so the little creature crawled away a bit, away from it’s parents with a look of, “What are you doing? If I walk away you’ll stop, right?”. So the baby monkey started to walk down the ledge as the lady joined in, poking the monkey. Eventually the couple pushed it so far away from it’s parents that THEY HAD TO PAY. The mom and dad monkeys raced, honking and roaring at the couple. One grabbed a pant leg while the other pulled hair. It was glorious. Though I may be being harsh in saying this, idiots get what they deserve.
Another funny monkey incident was when my parents had just gone inside and the monkey parents were quietly grooming. A man across the little terrace was taking out a bag of chips when, WHOOSH fast as lightening, and smelling the bag from almost twenty feet away, the mother monkey RACED toward him and grabbed the bag. She ate the chips just like you or me, by sitting down and sticking her hand in the bag, selecting a chip and eating it with her hands with much gusto.
So if you visit the rock of Gibraltar here are some tips. 1. DON’T BRING FOOD. The monkeys will smell food a mile away and will WANT it. 2. DON’T TOUCH THE MONKEYS. Like I mentioned earlier, you’ll either get mauled by some parent monkeys or bit severely on your hand. They may look fluffy and cute but they are WILD animals and to be treated with respect. 3. SUNSCREEN. Enough said there. 4. Bring some good walking shoes, the tunnels go up, down, around and EVERYWHERE!
If, after hearing all this, you wonder why the monkeys are on the rock at all, think about how, A. This is the monkey’s home. B. They’re very fun to meet. And C. If they were taken away, you’d be getting rid of tourism in Gibraltar which would lead to a huge dent in many people’s living.
The monkeys have a big history in Gibraltar, they’re not even called monkeys, but are Barbary macaques. They are descended from the North African population. Their arrival in Gibraltar was most likely orchestrated by the Moors, who occupied southern Iberia, Spain and Portugal between 711 and 1492. The macaques were originally kept as pets. The monkeys were soon a part of the mountain, and lived high up in the chasms of the rock for many decades! Their population took a horrible dip though, and only a few were left! So, incredibly, the great Winston Churchill ordered that North African replacements must be found and taken care of, Gibraltar is not Gibraltar without it’s monkeys! The British Army, and later the Gibraltar Regiment soon took the monkeys into their care, with LITERALLY a military fashion. An officer was appointed to supervise their welfare, food allowance in the budget, and birthrate. When a new arrival came, the little monkey would be named, often after governors, brigadiers, or high-ranking officers.
Now, these monkeys are microchipped and tattooed for identification and brought in for regular check ups.
One of the greatest sights I saw that day was the cave, St. Michael’s cave. The massive, spiraling, breathtaking, delicate spires dripped down from the cavernous ceiling and creeped up from the stony floor. The area is even used as a concert hall! And it even was once proclaimed a bottomless pit by the Romans and was a Military hospital. I hope to see a bat.

“From there to here, and here to there, funny things are everywhere.” – Dr. Seuss