After a very long day yesterday, we are in Fes (Fez). The day started in Gibraltar with an early morning taxi to the ‘Frontier’ (as the Gibbers like to call the border) and then another Taxi to the Ferry in Algeciras, Spain for the 1.5 hour trip to Tangier, Morocco. We arrived in Tanger Med, which is a giant newish port to make the arrival process more secure. It is a vast complex that is very underused at the moment but with a “build it and they will come” attitude. After a scary Taxi ride (no seat belts, 100mph straightaways, and aggressive passing…Welcome to Morocco and the Male Ego in full expression) we arrived at the train station. On the train to Fes we met a very nice man maned Abdul who had ‘family’ in Denver and wished to ‘Help’ us (as we were now family) for a favor (money) with guides, drivers or anything we needed. He was very smooth and subtle and had unnerved the girls a bit because “Daddy, he seemed honesty and who can you then trust”. Lessons are being learned. He soon left and we had the compartment to ourselves except when visited by other ‘Abduls’. Since it is Ramadan this month there was no food or drink aboard the train but the conductor kindly acquired 2 large bottles of water for about $1us. With a small tip it was the first financial transaction in Morocco that didn’t leave me with the feeling of being conned. It is part of the barter culture and we as visitors will learn to adapt. So, here we are at the Riad (Hotel or large Home) Baraka. Peaceful, Soothing and a Perfect end to the day. It is magical and a bit surreal being here.
Pierre arrived as a newbie to ocean sailing. A couple days into the trip he was pulling his own watch and starting to fix stuff aboard. The Satellite Phone was the first of many challenges and he was as patient as possible with the aged Captain’s very flat learning curve. Most things electrical or internet based were his forte and he remained the best of companions through all the French and youngster jokes (only one situation I envied….). He learned lightning-quick and left Tom, Max and me stuttering a bit. He was the best crew that I could have chosen. Many thanks to Pierre for making this voyage possible. Without his Nutella-filled grin and tremendous attitude, life would have been much lonelier aboard Heldeleine. A friend for life, I sure hope. Thanks Pierre!
Off to Morocco in the Morning. Will try to update but …will bring tracker so Desert Camel Sailing is in our future! View the location or send a reply to Daniel Culpepper: https://explore.delorme.com/textmessage/txtmsg?mo=35d1bc7353d145c9ad48bd237566227331763902&adr=50ftbnto-clpppr%40sailingheldeleine.com Daniel Culpepper sent this message from: Lat 36.149365 Lon -5.353862 Do not reply directly to this message. This message was sent to you using the DeLorme inReach two-way satellite communicator with GPS. To learn more, visit http://www.delorme.com/inReach/
HELLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I’m Helen Julia Lafollete Culley Burdet Mansfeild Culpepper the 3rd!!!!! (Or I’d like to be, what a grand title to boom out into the ears of my cheering fans!) I’m the youngest, most interesting, and cutest of the entire Culpepper family, by far the best (Also not a scrap of modesty). But putting that aside, in this blog I’ll be covering the funny and unique animals, also any intriguing musicians we hear, as well as some of my fascinating journeys, fighting demons and monsters (Fine, maybe I’m exaggerating a bit).
My first entry will be on our first lovely day in Madrid! I woke early in the morning to find that I had the horror of JETLAG!! DA DA DAAAAAA!!! (Big dramatic music!) I was in bed the entire morning with a pounding headache, no interesting things there, so I’ll skip to when we exited to hotel into the crowded street. We had a great muffin at a café that had doors that slide oddly so we couldn’t figure out how to get in t first ¡AWKWARD! So then we ran a few errands and went into the glorious train station!!!!! With it’s beautiful Ironwork it is truly one of the grand sights of all of Madrid! Especially because of the huge sentries standing guard over all of the tiny humans, and they are the first animals I will wright on. These mystical beasts are half lion, bat, worm, and Capricorn! I call them Batawormions! Well maybe since their metal they don’t count as real lions or animals, but what’s a world without stretching the imagination!!!! J
“I like nonsense, it wakes up the brain cells. Fantasy is a necessary ingredient in living, it;s a way of looking at life through the wrong end of a telescope. Which is what I do, and that enables you to laugh at life’s realities” – Dr. Seuss
However, one of the best parts was the inside of the Train station! Besides a unique and pretty market, tere was an atrium and a pond full of…… dramatic pause……….. TURTLES. They were flopped on logs, sun bathing, swimming and playing, and climbing to the top of each other making a big stack of reptile, like Yertile the Turtle himself! So after that, we went to an interesting Chinese place, had a sweltering walk, and finally went to 2 museums. The first one was the Prado where we saw paintings of the royal family members and princesses by Velasquez and Goya (in my opinion, the full painting of the royal family was beautiful, but Goya was quite the shady character in the background hiding in the shadows……. BOO!)
While we were there we saw guitar and xylophone street performers! They were very good and seemed to be friends. The guitarist even played some American tunes.
Outside of that first museum we saw another amazing animal that I’d never think to be in Madrid! Green parrots! Their nest was settled comfortably in one of the tree’s large branches. The nest was enclosed like a giant 9-fooot pouch with a tiny opening at one end to fly through. I couldn’t get a good picture of the green birds, however they were VERY noisy! I even found a green feather on the side walk. (See below) So these mysterious parrots turned out to be Monk Parrots, which have spread rapidly through Madrid. Probably introduced as a pet, the Monk Parrots are as I said before, EXTREMELY noisy and breed a lot, so it amounts to a huge amount of sound! The people of Madrid are actually quite angry at this parrot for disturbing the calmness of parks like the Buen Retiro. They also push out other native species and feed on newly-seeded lawns.
Raccoons, another species that was sold as pets, have even become a bigger problem than the parrots! Because of their carrying of rabbis, parasites that attack the human nervous system, they eat bird eggs, they eat the young of protected species, and have spread like wildfire! War has been declared by the people of Madrid against these black masked burglars! The city authorized “the capture and death of any specimen” of raccoon, but don’t want to use poison.
Moving on, we went to the Reina Sofia museum and saw Picasso’s Guernica. A heart wrenching depiction of the fire bombs that raged through the town, slaughtering many. A powerful image is one of the paintings the Picasso painted of a devastated women after the bombing. Her mouth was open in silent rage and her eyes spoke of unspeakable terror.
On a happier note, I saw the exact place, a bench, where I lost my sketchpad 4 years ago! A kind Spanish English-speaking professor picked it up for me and sent it via-post to our house only about a month after leaving Spain. Someday I hope to say thank you.
We went to another café and saw yet another street performer! An Accordionist! He would walk up and down the street of cafés and serenade each one with music and then the people would drop money into his hat. There was always a jolly smile on his face.
Anyways, I’m writing too much so I’ll come to an end. We walked back through the heat at 8 and everyone was still bright-eyed and bushy-tailed!!! The Spanish know how to stay up LATE! I was impressed! So then we had room service while listening/watching Sponge Bob or Bobe Sponga in Spanish (Sponge Bob has a REALLY deep voice in Spanish!). Then we went to bed.
Today was good, Today was fun, Tomorrow is another one.
-Dr. Seuss
Tom Mayo departed Heldeleine at 5:30 this morning to see his son in Madrid. Words fail me in trying to describe what he has meant to this endeavor. From the minute he arrived on May 5, he has been an indispensable part of everything. Tom is a uniquely exceptional person. His life has involved many paths, some voluntary, some not. In each case he followed these paths with a positive attitude. finding something in each experience to keep himself moving where others would have stopped. Others would have whined. Others would have crumbled. Tom shouldered on and kept going forward. Vast experience, extraordinary work ethic and unflappable in all critical situations. Tom was the perfect shipmate. Thank you Tom!
But first sleep. View the location or send a reply to Daniel Culpepper: https://explore.delorme.com/textmessage/txtmsg?mo=b7dccc5c873a4585b908379f4a6fb1b231328401&adr=50ftbnto-clpppr%40sailingheldeleine.com Daniel Culpepper sent this message from: Lat 36.14929 Lon -5.353903 Do not reply directly to this message. This message was sent to you using the DeLorme inReach two-way satellite communicator with GPS. To learn more, visit http://www.delorme.com/inReach/
We are HERE. I really feel like the Transatlantic is complete. It ended with a bang. Actually many bangs. Promise photos .. View the location or send a reply to Daniel Culpepper: https://explore.delorme.com/textmessage/txtmsg?mo=f62bea03e3a54fcfaab2442bd51995b931328390&adr=50ftbnto-clpppr%40sailingheldeleine.com Daniel Culpepper sent this message from: Lat 36.14929 Lon -5.353903 Do not reply directly to this message. This message was sent to you using the DeLorme inReach two-way satellite communicator with GPS. To learn more, visit http://www.delorme.com/inReach/
We have arrived in Gibraltar. It was a horrendous overnight of big seas, 35+ winds on the nose and little sleep. View the location or send a reply to Daniel Culpepper: https://explore.delorme.com/textmessage/txtmsg?mo=b2e2c1014d054c1387c1ed3f7096a91b31328228&adr=50ftbnto-clpppr%40sailingheldeleine.com Daniel Culpepper sent this message from: Lat 36.14929 Lon -5.353903 Do not reply directly to this message. This message was sent to you using the DeLorme inReach two-way satellite communicator with GPS. To learn more, visit http://www.delorme.com/inReach/
Heldeleine has left Cadiz bound for Gibraltar. We said bye to Pierre today. He is missed. Safe travels to our friend! View the location or send a reply to Daniel Culpepper: https://explore.delorme.com/textmessage/txtmsg?mo=8d3c3205690449d684f5eff1f0e55d7d31293132&adr=50ftbnto-clpppr%40sailingheldeleine.com Daniel Culpepper sent this message from: Lat 36.107758 Lon -5.960855 Do not reply directly to this message. This message was sent to you using the DeLorme inReach two-way satellite communicator with GPS. To learn more, visit http://www.delorme.com/inReach/