Bongiorno from Sardinia! We had a wonderful time snorkeling yesterday, and little Helen is becoming a veritable fish, learning how to dive deep, and then coming back up to the surface. I am studying up on my Roman history, and have discovered that King Romulus, the founder of Rome, was conceived by a Vestal Virgin and the God Mars. The God Mars supposedly came down to her while she was sleeping, made love to her, then went back to the heavens, where he came from. The Vestal Virgin gave birth to Romulus 9 months later. Where have I heard this story before? Romulus was born in 709 BC. Fascinating!!! I love how history repeats itself. Sounds like Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary. We saw a lovely parade last night of the Italian military, Italian political leaders and Italian priests, marching with a statue of Mary Maddalena, their Goddess or patron Saint of their town. It was an amazing festival with marching bands and singing.
Great tradition and an amazing festival!
Hello!! I’m back, man it’s been a while since I have been able to post. We haven’t
had a lot of wifi. Right now we are in Sardinia, Italy, in the Maddalena Islands, which are a nature preserve, however I think it’s a nature preserve in the loose sense, as there is a city here and a huge amount of people. I thought I would just post some highlights from our last couple days: I went to the hospital (heat stroke, nothing that serious) and got an IV. It was actually a lot of fun, though I’m not a huge fan of needles. There was a couple cardboard boxes near my bed there that had the word “Ebola” on them so, that was interesting! Since Africa is part of the Mediterranean and many immigrants come through here, Ebola is of real concern. I also learned not to leave my dad in an emergency room for too long (he got bored and started blowing up latex gloves and sticking stuff to himself). Another interesting thing that happened recently was a strange parade we saw, last night. It was dark and we were about to tuck in when we heard a band and a voice from loudspeakers talking in Italian. There was a parade of priests, military cadets and a huge statue of St. Mary Maddelena that was loaded on to a ferry and set off, followed by a crowd of boats with priests taking selfies. Afterwords was a huge fireworks display. Today we check out the town we are in (La Maddalena) some more. I will post tonight. –Maddy
One of the highlights in Palma for me was the Cathedral. Though I do not believe in what they are selling, it is a fact that some of History’s greatest minds spent a lot of time building and decorating these structures. The Palma Cathedral is unique in that ithey continue to add to this 600 year old building. Check out the stained glass work and frescoes by Miquel Bercelo. Damn. 300.000 lbs of plaster which he punched from behind to create the faces, fish and human forms.
After Palma we travelled to Cala Canutells on Menorca overnight on the way to Sardinia. Talk about the perfect setup. Heldeleine is the blue boat furthest out. Great beach and a fine restaurant right there. Not too bad…
Tom Mayo! Yes, I constructed a ladder with a plank and a pivot around a thick rod. Our new Halyard does the lifting With a balance from large water bottle. View the location or send a reply to Daniel Culpepper: https://explore.delorme.com/textmessage/txtmsg?mo=6aa26690e8a041228672477fc6b3bb5d34440426&adr=50ftbnto-clpppr%40sailingheldeleine.com Daniel Culpepper sent this message from: Lat 39.257745 Lon 3.10471 Do not reply directly to this message. This message was sent to you using the DeLorme inReach two-way satellite communicator with GPS. To learn more, visit http://www.delorme.com/inReach/
Thank goodness NO killer whales in the Med! At least that is what we are telling the kids! Very best to you and yours Sue. D. View the location or send a reply to Daniel Culpepper: https://explore.delorme.com/textmessage/txtmsg?mo=75759e6ed1d14f06b2b2ebdcf866dc1634440194&adr=50ftbnto-clpppr%40sailingheldeleine.com Daniel Culpepper sent this message from: Lat 39.257745 Lon 3.10471 Do not reply directly to this message. This message was sent to you using the DeLorme inReach two-way satellite communicator with GPS. To learn more, visit http://www.delorme.com/inReach/
Greetings! After experiencing the Moroccan desert, where the traditional Berber women wear Burkas and keep themselves covered, our boat took us to the island of Espalmador (in the Balearic Islands), where quite a few women and men were naked on the beach! We saw a couple of families–entirely naked. Mom, Dad and kids too.
It was a complete CULTURE SHOCK from conservative Morocco. This beach, with naked Europeans, is only 150 miles away from North Africa, where people completely cover themselves. Two different cultures, very near each other. I asked Maddy and Helen to cover their arms and wear baggy pants when we were in Morocco, as a sign of respect.
I thought to myself, “what do I say to the girls now? Buy a string bikini? Blend in–go topless?”
And yet I loved that Moroccan culture. I miss Morocco. I loved the people we met there. Naked or covered: people are people.
Sent from my iPhone
So, I’ll start this with the cats! Kitties are EVERYWHERE in the Medina!!! They line the streets, walk by your legs, and are surprisingly very sweet. They stand in circles around the horrifically smelling butchery and sometimes in front of breadshops, where a kind child or sympathetic adult will give them tid-bits. Many kittens live in Fes, so it is quite common to see a few newborn kittens curled on a doorstep or playing in he middle of the street. Moroccan people don’t generally mind the cats, they keep away the mice, after all! But some, like our chef, Souad, say that the cats are very lazy, they just lie around all day! It’s hard to not believe that, for a common sight in the street is a lounging cat, just laid down in the middle of the bustling street!
On our first day we went to a fun restaurant with unique seats (every restaurant in Morocco seems to have a different seat cover). We were just starting our meal when my sister giggled and my dad, sitting next to her calmly stated, “oh, a cat”. Sure enough, to my delight there was a black and white cat, more of a kitten, under our table! The kitty was the same one we had seen before, being fed some meat by the son of a bread seller. She patiently waited for food, though we couldn’t feed her any, for A. The owner would think it rude and didn’t seem to want cats in the restruant (though all the seats were outside) B. Because we weren’t particularly sure of what Moroccan etiquette demanded in that situation. After a while though, we began to realize tha she was just a friendly cat that wanted a meal. Granted that it was stupid for who knows what the cat had touched, my mother and I petted her and she purred all the while. I immediately named her Langas which means long in Spanish. When we finished eating we wished Langas a happy day and departed. I hope she’s having fun as we speak.
The other animals found in the Medina are Horses and donkeys! You’ll often her the call of, “Yellah!!!!” (Go) Ring throughout the crowded streets when a mule and handler pass. These equines usually hold EVERYHING someone needs to take to market, including lettuce, grain, and even huge metal containers of propane! However, many look a little exhausted and starved, they’re working animals after all.
Song birds in parakeet cages are also a common sight. They hang off of shops and sing their tunes to the crowd. I believe they are for sale.
The funny thing about Morocco is that the people there don’t keep pets! Aside from working sheep dogs, rich westerners, and big homes with guard dogs, Morocco is not a place with pets! Just other mouths to feed! But that doesn’t mean that no pets are wanted. Our chef at cafe Clock, Suad, told this information. Her sister’s son loves to bring little kittens into the house until they grow up (for Morroco is riddled with tiny kits smaller than my hand!), many of the older generation though, thinks of cats as just more trouble, so the mother tells him to turn them out.
What you have to remember when you enter Morocco is that A. the country IS NOT a scary country like Tunisia at the moment B. Bargaining is a way of life. When you come to Morocco be ready to be charged a good price for your item you want to buy. But we warned! Things are a TON cheaper in Morocco! If you get sandals for $12 and think “Wow! What a great price!”, remember that in Marroco sandals are probably worth $2. If you are a foreigner and maybe even a local they’ll set the price at about ten times what it’s worth. So bargain! It’s not offending a Moroccan at all if you do, it’s in fact excpected! Use tactics like: shock at such a high price, respect “I know it’s a great product but I just can’t pay that price”, feign that you have only a few dollars, look at the time like you have to go, say you can’t pay and go to leave the shop keeper might stop you for a better price
My favorite parts of the trip were getting Henna tattoo, the Riad Barraca, the Riad’s breakfast, the Cats :), the Desert excursion and the camels, the Medina itself, eating with Langas, hearing all the history, and café Clock and cooking with Suaod, one of the friendliest and happiesst people we met in Morocco.
All of these experiences go to prove that Morocco is not a corrupt and terrifying country. Morocco is not the thieving country of crooks and beggers. Morroco is not evil.
. Morocco is the smile of a taxi driver saying, “Enshala”. Morroco is the smell of spices wafting up from Suaod’s tagine as she laughs and tells of her family. It is the merry clamor of the Medina with it’s shops and energetic salesmen. It is the giggles of the children when my father bangs his head on a door because of his hieght and the meows of kittens waiting for a tasty morsel.it is the joy of Amazir children as they run about the tourist’s car, playing in the hills of the nomad land. It is the setting of a burning sun as a Sahara moon rises from the windswept doons, over smelly camels.
So as the ferry pulls away from the sparkling shore, we remember the wonderful time we spent here, and look forward to the next journey we’ll take to Morocco!
After being waylaid in Alicante due to sea conditions, we finally made it overnight to the tiny island of Espalmador. The anchorage there is a national preserve (seagrass) and anchoring is not allowed so you must rent a mooring online, for a lot of money, in advance, while in Spain (not the US). For all of that we were expecting a tranquil setting but….many, many boats wedged into a small space and seagrass was less of a concern than making money. That said, it is a really lovely place and because of that, SOME control must be instituted. Apparently prior to the moorings, boats went bump in the night frequently. Beach was beautiful but we came for the MUD. In the center of the islan
d is a mud field. Thanks to Paul
and Sheryl Shard and their cruising video series ‘Distant Shores’ for the info. on this gem. Sulfurous, stinky, not-your-spa, MUD. But full of….minerals! Yup, minerals and other shit that stinks. Well, lather up we did and how healthy and righteous we felt. Let it dry and then run to the beach and GET THIS STUFF OFF. But pictures tell the tale and if you put your nose in a 5 day old athletic sock you’ll get the full treatment.
Thanks Lee, Please join us next year! View the location or send a reply to Daniel Culpepper: https://explore.delorme.com/textmessage/txtmsg?mo=8488b1f3d67f4d5a9fd7f136c103211334074254&adr=50ftbnto-clpppr%40sailingheldeleine.com Daniel Culpepper sent this message from: Lat 39.080322 Lon 1.60394 Do not reply directly to this message. This message was sent to you using the DeLorme inReach two-way satellite communicator with GPS. To learn more, visit http://www.delorme.com/inReach/
The moon has risen dead ahead. It is a sliver of silver, I am so lucky to be here. Helen just arrived. Damn, I love this. View the location or send a reply to Daniel Culpepper: https://explore.delorme.com/textmessage/txtmsg?mo=9b605179e8af444d808e18e1c097151b33775575&adr=50ftbnto-clpppr%40sailingheldeleine.com Daniel Culpepper sent this message from: Lat 38.41567 Lon 0.420635 Do not reply directly to this message. This message was sent to you using the DeLorme inReach two-way satellite communicator with GPS. To learn more, visit http://www.delorme.com/inReach/